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RE: Propane tank on Monaco Diplomat
The tank valve is probably back-seated which is common with propane supply valves. this is done to keep the valve core from leaking. My suggestion is to to ONLY start the closing process using a wrench then complete closing it with your hand(s. when re-opening the valve do it by hand until back-seated as best you can by hand then a very slight wrench pressure to complete the back-seat. VERY SLIGHT PRESSURE!!!!!
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kix
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12/01/08 06:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tapping Air Supply – Which Spot?
CVD, Another option.....why not put a air compressor on your Jeep. You can use the exact same compressor that is used for A/C. Just get one from the junk yard including the mounting brackets. If you already have A/C on the Jeep you cna still add the belt driven compressor but will need a bracket. See www.kilbyenterprises.com for parts/fittings. Lots more versatile. I have that setup so holler if you have ???? KIX
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kix
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12/01/08 06:43pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: LP Gas Sensor
But my sending unit does not have a local gauge. I guess Beaver thought the fancy LED panel would never have a problem.
So it looks like the next steps are to find the tank ground and clean it up, then measure the resistance from the terminal to the tank ground. Then, depending on that reading, pull the plastic cover and do the paper clip test you described.
The dial gauge at the tank is clear face with a red pointer that's pretty small considering it's mostly covered by the brass stud/nut for the sender wire. I've not seen one without a pointer but maybe you've got one.
RE: tank ground The tank is grounded via the connections to the chassis. You sould have continuity between anyplace on the tank and battery negative.
I'll bet at least $0.25 that your sender at the tank is defective. Same for Fossil Hound too.
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kix
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11/26/08 06:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: LP Gas Sensor
Kix,
After driving it for about 500 miles with only 10 gallons in the tank, there was no movement on the gauge at all.
That doesn't surprise me.....by the time you can stop the rig and go look at the dial guage on the tank all movement has stopped. Perhaps you could get the tank oof level by using your leveling jacks to see if the float responds. Don't be surprised if you don't see a difference with onl;y 10 gallons in the tank.
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kix
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11/26/08 06:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: LP Gas Sensor
FossilHound, Sometimes the plastic dial at the tank will stick. I use the fill valve yellow plastic cover to rap on the edge of the plastic dial a couple of times. This will usually free it if it's stuck. You may also check the sending wire connection to the plastic dial and clean as needed.
Your post said you "ran out of propane" and then added "10 gallons but did not see a gauge change". The plastic dial has a rheostat that increases the resistance as the dial moves toward full. Perhaps 10 gallons isn't enough to move the dial enough to make a gauge change. Also, some of the 10 liquid gallons you added immediately goes into a vapor state which will not register on the dial. You may find that by adding more liquid the dial will start registering. It's similar to your car fuel gauge registering empty but there is still 5 - 10 gallons of fuel in the tank.
PS I don't like hijacking anothers thread but in this case perhaps my info will help the OP also.
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kix
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11/26/08 07:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: LP Gas Sensor
The odds of a bad float assembly are I would guess 1 out of 1000. Most likely it's the visible dial. You can remove that without concern and then have your propane dealer match it. REmember to make sure the new dial is the same ohm range as the old one.
I am assuming you're having an issue reading the propane level inside your coach, right? If I have guessed correctly then I imagine that your problme is either with the dial on the tank float or the lights inside the coach on the inside gauge or it could be the sender (dial) wire.
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kix
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11/25/08 07:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How do you fill your MH tires?
BigDomino said he needs 90 to 95 lbs of psi. The air governer on a truck or coach air system cycles between 95 to 120 psi (give or take). when you air up a tire and the presure gets close to 95 and the coach psi is around 100 it can take a long time to transfer that air and trip the govenor.
you might try stabing the brakes to get the govenor to trip and raise the psi to 120.
Or just bleed some air at the quick connected air chuck.
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kix
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11/25/08 07:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: LP Gas Sensor
FossilHound, I forgot to actually answer your question: "What is involved in replacing the float in the propane tank?"
Changing the float is actually very easy.....remove and replace 4 screws and a gasket. BUT, and this is a huge BUT, you must have precisely the correct float assembly.....there are probably 10 gazillion variations of assemblies.
Also, the propane tank must be liquid empty and vapor evacuated......I'm betting you don't have an evacuation pump or the knowledge to make certain the tank is vapor empty. Not to be cavalier but this is one item you really should not do at home.
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kix
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11/25/08 05:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: LP Gas Sensor
I have changed floats in propane tanks many times. The one on your coach is the same in principle as a float in any propane tank. Before I would drain a propane tank and burn off all the vapor I would make certain that the float is in fact not working. Note in my earlier post that the float communicates with the visible gauge (dial) via a magnet underneath the dial and inside the tank. Remove the dial and place a paper clip in the "cup" the dial normally resides in. Rotate the paper clip in the "cup" and see if it returns to the original position as dictated by the magnet. If the magnet is present you can be about 50% sure the float is good. Next step is to change the liquid propane level inside the tank by using a considerable amount of propane. After that try the paper clip again. If the magnet (and paper clip) positions have changed then you can be 95% sure the float is working properly. The two reasons that may leave some doubt are the float arm may be bent inside the tank (very unlikely) and you can't be certain the automatic stop fill device works.....yet. To check the stop fill device you must fill the tank and open the outage bleeder while filling. The outage gauge should start spitting liquid at about the same time the stop fill blocks further filling of the tank. If any of this is not clear to you then you should find someone that can give you clearer instructions or a professional.
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kix
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11/25/08 05:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: LP Gas Sensor
Gonesouth, You mostly have some pretty good info here already. I'll only add that the plastic gauge on the tank that has a single wire attached can be replaced very easily. It attaches the the gauge boss on the tank with 2 small screws. The actual gauge float assembly attaches to the tank with 4 larger screws in a approx. 2" square pattern. The dial in the visible gauge moves due to a magnet in the float assembly that rotates dependent on the liquid level in the tank. So, you can change out the plastic gauge with the red needle and single wire attached without having the tank empty or leaking fuel. Just do not loosen the 4 larger screws in the 2" square pattern.
If you want to replace the gauge on the tank (not IN the tank) go see a local propane dealer and take your old gauge with you and make sure the ohms range is the same.
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kix
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11/25/08 04:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Huhges Autoformer or Surge guard
Another suggestion is to test every electrical source BEFORE you hook up. You will avoid alot of problems. If you don't know how then find out. It's not difficult to learn.
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kix
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11/25/08 04:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Huhges Autoformer or Surge guard
I would suggest that you install the surge protector first. Then, if youhook up at places where voltage drops is suspect then add an Autoformer. I would also suggest that you look into your crystal ball and if a 50 amp rig may be in your future then buy the 50 amp Autoformer. the 50 amp will work when hooked to 30 amp with no problems. Good luck.
What did I do? I have both in a 50 amp rig. Been very happy and no problems.
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kix
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11/25/08 04:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fridge cooling tips needed
It's in the shade, running on AC and has 2 thermostatic fans to cool back of unit. Thermistor is all the way to the top. Move it lower??? I thought higher was to increase cooling. :?
You are absolutely correct....I'm wrong. Thermistor up for cooler.
I still think you need to move more air across the coils on the back. You did say that the freezer was down to 15^.....right?
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kix
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07/14/08 10:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fridge cooling tips needed
LIke hohenwald48 said it will cool better on gas than electric. the other thing is that it sounds like you're bnot moving enough air behind the unit. Try an added fan blowing up behind the unit. That should lower your box temps. One more item is the thermistor that is clipped onto the fins in the fridge box.....try moving it lower on the fin it's clipped onto.
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kix
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07/14/08 08:44pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: REAR AIR dash guage suddenly goes down and alarm comes on
abh002, The black plastic box that houses the PC board has 2 small holes near the bottom edge on one side. I'm guessing that moisture finds it's way in that way. Mine is located ibn a position that pretty much precludes rain or spray from the tires so I'm not sure how it gets in there but it does.
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kix
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07/14/08 08:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: REAR AIR dash guage suddenly goes down and alarm comes on
We also have a Spartan chassis and have experienced a similar problem. The Spartan Mountain Master chassis has a PC board that "collects" all the sensor readings and then sends them to the appropriate gauges. The OC board is in a black plastic housing mounted on a cross frame brace just behind the front genset. It will have red & green air lines and I think 2 electric harnesses going to it. That PC board controls all your gauges. In our case moisture had gotten into the box and shorted out the PC board. Had I know all the foregoing at the time of failure I would have removed the box fromthe mount position and opened it, removed the PC board and sprayed it liberaly with Corrosion Block. That will sometimes fix" a short in PC boards. If you need to replace it the box is only available from Spartan at about $450. It's a DIY replacement. Good luck.
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kix
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07/14/08 04:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Balancing rear tires?
Take a look at Centramatic based in Ft. Worth, TX. They are a dynamic balancer and once installed at NO cost you'll never have to balance again.
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kix
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07/07/08 07:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Help!! Brakes Fell Off!!
I also think, like Tom Kat, that a metal plate is missing. It is held on by a single bolt that goes into the threads visible in the top photo. Try calling your chassis manufacturer for the part. I also agree that it looks like a Bendix brand caliper as found on heavy Chevy trucks.
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kix
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07/04/08 09:05am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Taking the Class A North on I95 - Yikes!!!
Howdy Don, Rigrarob has a good route. A few years ago we were shipping a floating marina up to Noank, CT. A small town near Mysstic. Anyway, that's the route our trucks took.
Hope you have a great, fun trip. We'll be home from CO sometime in September and I'll get in touch. Take care.
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kix
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07/03/08 09:18pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cracks in fiberglass roof
To check for a leak here's what I've done.
Set a large as possible box fan in the entry door and use plastic to close off the rest of the doorway. Tape the plastic in place. close all windows and vents and seal any other opening where the air blown in by the fan may escape. Turn the fan on to "pressurize" the coach interior. Spray a soapy water solution on the outside in the area where you suspect a leak and look for bubbles.
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kix
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07/02/08 03:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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